Before You Begin

You need to know as much about the individual dogs as possible.

This valuable information will set you up as to how to approach the mix and how to best make it work, as you’ll have a great idea how the dog will react to different situations.

Don’t do a mix without at least some knowledge about the dogs you are mixing!

Let the client know that if their dog snaps/growls or barks towards the dog that it’s ok and it’s just communication, and to please let them do it - obviously if their dog tries to lunge and act aggressively towards the other then hold them back…!

You can guarantee that the client who says “Oh my dog will never do that” - then their dog definitely will!

People often panic when they do display these behaviours and tell their dog off for it.

Walking First

Explain the mixing process to the clients - they may be nervous about the safety of their dogs. Ensure them it’s a step by step process and it’s all done as safely as possible as we try to spot the issue before there’s an issue.

Before the dogs have any physical contact whatsoever, take them on a walk first, a good distance from each other. A good distance being about 20 metres or so.

DO NOT RUSH IT - YOU COULD SET THEM UP TO FAIL

If you rush it and let them meet straight away, and it starts with a close negative panic reaction (snap, bark, lunge, panic etc) within the first few minutes, it's incredibly hard to recover from that as their dog will be very nervous and defensive.

ALWAYS ALWAYS have the less confident dog walking a good distance BEHIND the more confident dog.

In nearly every single case, it’s the client’s dog who will be the more nervous one being new to the rescue - even if the client insists they’re confident, you can guarantee they will, at least, be a little on edge being in the rescue environment.

If you’re unsure, have the client’s dog behind you anyway.

Having the more nervous dog walking behind will be so much calmer and more comfortable for them.

This allows time and space for them to assess the other dog to see they’re no threat, because the ‘sharp end’ is walking away from them and there’s no direct eye contact, and no tension.

Try and have the more confident dog facing the front to avoid any intense eye contact - they will no doubt, at least once, try and turn around and stare which can unsettle the more nervous dog.

Ask the clients to follow where you’re walking so they can follow the other dog’s scent.

What you’re looking for is relaxed and calm behaviour from the dogs - losing focus of the dog in front, turning their back on them, sniffing, exploring, toileting, possible excitable behaviour and relaxed posture.

Once both dogs are displaying calming signs you can start to decrease the distance with the 2 dogs. Do not rush this! It may take a few minutes…….half an hour…an hour for them to settle - if they don’t at all then it’s not going to work.

Look out for Avoidance Behaviour

Some dogs will subtly avoid other dogs - they may walk calmly right by their side - but will show zero interest in them and will turn away anytime the other dog tries to interact. If this continues with zero interaction then it’s unlikely to work.

You may be happy walking alongside strangers in the street - doesn’t mean you want anything to do with them, let alone live with them!

Look out for subtle and sharp eye movements from the dogs. If they’re displaying this, then they’re unsettled with them and are still learning to trust them and want to keep an eye on them.

It’s best and safer to walk them out the lane and turn right up the road - the road is wider and there are more laybys to calmly let them interact if, and when, they’re ready to do so. For a longer walk, when you get to the crossroads, take the left and walk along there - it’s usually very calm up there.

Letting Them Interact on Walks

When you feel they’re ready to interact when they’re both calm - keep it brief initially.

When they go nose to nose - keep it to literally 1 second maximum before quickly encouraging them to continue walking.

Any longer than 1 second nose to nose and it will create tension between the 2 dogs - the more nervous one will most likely give -

OR

But more likely to snap especially the first time meeting each other properly.

Try not to pull them away with the lead as you could cause them to react - instead really encourage them to continue walking with a forward motion and keep it fun and light.

Do several very very brief nose to nose encounters before allowing them to interact properly. This can be every few minutes or longer depending on how calm they are.

You want them to interact positively - sniff each other (at the same time ‘69’ is a bonus as it shows mutual trust) and explore together - sniffing the same spot at the same time is great, and when they’re exploring together.

Interacting and calmly moving around each other is perfect.

Be very very careful not to get the leads tangled.

When the dogs interact, they may circle each other or quickly spin/play around each other. You may need to quickly walk around them, at the same pace as them, to stop the leads getting tangled if they’re spinning whilst interacting.

If they get tangled and become trapped very close to each other - they will quickly panic and snap at each other - which could result in a dog fight if not sorted quickly. Make sure the owners are pre-warned about this and they walk around with you too.

Mixing on Lead in the Paddock

If they’re walking together great, relaxed with each other, settled in each other’s company and are exploring together well, then you can progress to the paddock.

Ideally the grass paddock is the best paddock to do the mix in as it’s calmer being further away from New Strays, there are fewer toys dotted around and fewer hiding areas and blind spots where they could scrap (underneath the hedge/in the shed etc).

If needs be - the astro paddock is ok - be mindful as there’s always an abundance of toys in there, so you may need to remove them beforehand.

Make sure everyone is aware you’re mixing in the paddock and to keep all other dogs not involved in the mix out of the equation. They need to be well away and out of sight from the paddock area when mixing - it can be very distracting for the dogs and if there is a reactive dog it can sometimes cause a dog fight with the dogs you’re mixing and ruin the mix! (It’s usually volunteers that are unaware and will wander up - please tell them to walk down the drive.)

Once in the paddock, ‘our’ dog will most likely be very excited and want to play as it will be familiar and settled with the paddock area.

Keep both dogs on lead and walk them both around the perimeter of the paddock first - it’s still a brand new area for the new dog so it needs to be allowed time to settle.

Once you’ve done several laps of the paddock on lead, you can usually let the more nervous dog go off lead (again in nearly every single case, it’s usually the client’s dog). If you’re unsure, or have two very boisterous dogs - have them both on long lines / slip leads and give the newer dog more freedom on lead.

This is their opportunity to do whatever they want to do, which is to explore the paddock on their own without the other dog hassling them and to learn the environment. They’re usually relatively calm and just want to sniff and explore all the scents of the other dogs - it’s rare they burst into play immediately but you never know what they’ll do so be aware.

Keep walking round as it encourages them to walk with you, and keep our dog on a short but relaxed lead close to you.

Dogs aren’t daft and they know who’s on lead and who isn’t. We keep our dog on lead so their dog feels safer and will relax quicker. Do not introduce toys at this point and remind the clients not to either.

When their dog begins to relax and gets more confident with and around the other dog, you can gradually give our dog a little more freedom (add an extra slip lead/attach a longline). Again, keep walking around - it encourages the dogs to walk with us, to settle and interact.

If you stand completely stationary, so will the dogs - and this could create tension and anxiety.

Play Behaviour

You want both dogs to be comfortable playing with each other, without one being more intrusive and boisterous than the other one would like.

If both dogs are initiating play with each other and it’s not getting too boisterous or vocal then that’s great.

Dogs will try varied techniques to get the other dog to play:

If it feels too intense and the dog on lead is too over excited and too boisterous for the other dog, then keep it on lead to keep control of the situation until it reads the other dog well and listens to any warnings.

If one dog is far too playful and boisterous and you can see the other dog is uncomfortable / trying to avoid it / or if it’s giving warnings but the other dog isn’t listening or retaliating to the warnings, then the mix won’t work and the warnings will get more severe, which will cause a negative escalation with the dogs.

What you’re looking for is the dogs to be able to read each other well, have play moments but to have natural breaks from play themselves - to explore together, then playful moments, without us having to intervene to calm and settle the situation.

Letting Go of the Lead

You may have a mix where you have two large dogs of a similar temperament - e.g. both very playful and boisterous - in this case have them both on a lead to control the situation if needs be.

Once you feel the dogs are very relaxed with each other, and there’s no tension and it feels safe to do so, you can keep them attached to the long line but let go of the lead. So the lead trails behind them so you can pick it up and control the situation quickly if required.

Do not rush this.

You may feel it’s not safe to get to this stage if the dogs are too nervous or ours is too intense.

If the lead is dropped and both dogs are relaxed with each other/playing well and reading each other well, then it is up to you to decide when is best to let them go completely off lead.

This is where you will get your exercise in and you need to be sure to stay close to them in-case you need to quickly engage or de-escalate any overly boisterous play.

Again - do not rush this.

Take your time with it - let them get used to each other with the lead trailing loose first, it’s always a big step letting them go completely off lead together. You may spot behaviours preventing you from letting them off lead completely together. Allow plenty of time to see how they are with each other.

Letting Dogs Off Lead

Once you feel it’s time to let them off lead -

BE READY FOR A SUDDEN CHANGE IN BEHAVIOUR

Both dogs will know they are both loose and the dynamics could completely change.

They may burst into play and start bombing it round, or be very wary and uncertain.

Be cautious and keep a sharp eye as -

This is where you will DEFINITELY get your exercise in as you need to be sure to stay close to them in-case you need to quickly engage or de-escalate any overly boisterous play.

If it does start to get too boisterous and you need to intervene, you can use quick and sharp voice correction to try and settle them. If that doesn’t work then best to put the more boisterous one/both of them back on a long line to settle them and build them up slowly again.

Most dog fights will occur through escalated play. If it starts getting too boisterous and vocal and with mouthing and play nipping - then step in straight away to control the situation and de-escalate play. Once both dogs are calm and relaxed you can build them up again slowly.

It’s all about how well they read each other - when they initially begin to play boisterously, be very cautious in case it escalates.

Be particularly cautious when mixing bull breeds - they can be very vocal and boisterous when playing which can lead to a negative escalation.

There will most likely be the occasional snap or telling off - communication between the dogs is important for them to learn the ‘Do’s and Don’ts’ with each other. Don’t worry too much - just make sure that the dogs learn from each other.

They need to listen to each other and read each other well. If one dog isn’t getting it and doesn’t listen, then the warnings will get more intense until it leads up to a bite.

You need to control the situation to ensure it doesn’t escalate to a bite, if warnings are not being read well OR if the other dog takes offence and retaliates.

If you feel it’s getting too intense, it’s always best to intervene sooner rather than later.

Introducing Toys

If the dogs are toy orientated, and as far as you’re aware they aren’t toy possessive at all, then introduce toys to the mix slowly and gradually - make sure there are multiple toys so there’s not possession over a single one, but keep alert for any possessive behaviours.

Ensuring a Good Foundation

Regardless of how well the mixes go - always do at least 3 mixes together to ensure a decent foundation of trust is formed between the dogs and they read and understand each other well.

If the owners can come up to walk the dogs together as often as possible then that’s great!

The more time the dogs spend with each other before they leave the rescue, the easier it will be to settle them in the home.

Make sure they’re always supervised in the paddock with a member of staff.

Taking Them in the Rehoming Unit

For the second mix, take them on a short walk again just to let them settle with each other - this can usually be just down the drive or around the sensory garden. Take them into the paddock again - depending on how the first mix went and how the individual dogs were, you may want to have one of them on a long line again to re-introduce them to being off lead again.

If you feel they’ve settled well and they’re relaxed with each other, it’s always beneficial to take them into the rehoming unit together.

This replicates the inside of a home environment with sofas, chairs and tables and it’s more intense than the paddock, which gives us an idea how they will be in a home.

Dogs could run around in the paddock all day long without any issues, but it may be a different case when bringing them into a small, more enclosed space. They may be more tense and wary in there, but they’ll probably enjoy exploring in there also. It’s unlikely our dogs will have been in there also so it’s a new space for them to explore.

You may spot issues in the unit that you wouldn’t spot in the paddock. You will get a better idea how they are with climbing on sofas also - some may be possessive over certain sofa spots.

What Owners Need to Know When Taking the Dogs Home

Make sure the dogs meet each other for the first time again on the road outside the home - never inside the home. It’s neutral territory outside the home.

They won’t be expecting to see each other and may not recognise each other initially. Go for a 20min calm walk before walking in the home together. This allows them to get re-acquainted and settled together again.

Keep the lead on the new dog and introduce them to the garden and spend a few minutes in each room. They may be a little nervous whereas the other dog will be quite confident and maybe excitable. The key word is calm. Take everything slow and don’t rush the new dog.

Owner Possession

Some clients’ dogs can be possessive over their owners.

Whenever the client is giving affection to ‘our’ dog, watch what their dog does. Are they glaring? Do they subtly or abruptly knock them out of the way? Are they vocal?

Keep an eye on this - you may need to intervene to calm the situation. It can sometimes be a deal breaker if it can’t be resolved.

Always advise the client to share out the affection evenly and to be aware of owner possession.

Toys

If the dogs are toy orientated, it may be best to keep toys out of the equation for the first few months inside the house. Introduce toys slowly and carefully after a few months when the dogs are settled - introduce a couple of toys so there’s not possession over a single one.

Feeding Separately

Before the dogs are rehomed - always tell owners to feed the dogs in completely separate rooms for at least the following 4 months, indefinitely.

It takes so much trust for a dog to eat next to an unfamiliar dog and if there’s going to be an altercation - it will most likely be over food.

Make sure they don’t give any long lasting treats or bones to the dogs for at least several months also - maybe not at all. Being a high value treat it could result in an altercation.

Regarding Play Behaviour in the Home

It’s always best to start associating outside the house for play - inside for calm. Not many people want boisterous dogs playing inside the home.

If the dogs are boisterous, make sure the owners know when to intervene and step in to calm the situation down.

Any overly boisterous behaviour - overly vocal, mouthing, play nipping - make sure they step in to intervene. It’s their role as ‘mummy and daddy’ to control the situation and to not let it escalate.

Sleeping Arrangements

It’s best to have the new dog to the home downstairs in the living room/kitchen area - definitely not in the bedroom.

Ideally sleeping apart from the other dog initially - this may help them settle. When they’re together it needs to be supervised for the first few days as that’s going to be the most testing time. Some dogs may be possessive over the sofa spot / dog bed.

Mixing 3+ Dogs

Always have the same ratio of dogs to people when mixing.

When mixing 3 or more dogs, the process is exactly the same. Make sure you know the dogs and which one is the more confident one.

When it comes to letting them interact on a walk, let the more confident one interact with ours first and have the more nervous out of the 3 hanging a few metres behind - this is so they can gain confidence watching the 2 interact.

Depending on the breeds you are mixing - you may want to do several on lead mixes before you enter the paddock.

Be extra cautious when going into the paddock and extra vigilant on the dogs to spot any wary behaviour. You may want to do one at a time in the paddock.

If it goes very wrong - you could potentially have a two on one dog attack scenario as the dogs will most likely defend one another if they’re closely bonded.

If the mixes go very well, ensure that 4+ mixes are done to fully secure a foundation of trust and understanding with them all.

Mixing Older Dogs with Younger Ones

It can be a big ask for an older dog to live with a lively youngster. Almost like expecting an elderly grandmother to look after a toddler.

Your sole priority needs to be focused on the older dog.

Any sign of stress or if the younger one is too much for them in any way then it’s an automatic no - otherwise it’s not fair on the older dog.

The younger dog needs to be respectful towards the older one and not to be too boisterous.

Sometimes older ones love having younger ones around and it releases a new lease of life for them. Owners need to be made aware about different energy levels and how the younger one will need more physical and mental stimulation. If the younger one is getting too much then they need to take it out for a separate walk or have more one on one time in the garden.

Good to Know

Every single mix you do will be different.

Some are very straight forward - mixing two 10 week old puppies etc. Some are very complicated - mixing 3 nervous Akitas etc, where you will need to do a couple of long walk mixes initially before even thinking of entering the paddock.

Sometimes mixes aren’t always black and white.

GO WITH YOUR GUT AND INSTINCT

If something doesn’t feel right or feels tense but you can’t quite pin-point why, then there’s probably a good reason why and there’s likely to be an issue.

If you’re doing a mix and you feel unsure of the dynamics and need a fresh pair of eyes to evaluate the situation, there’s absolutely no harm or shame to ask for a second opinion - 2+ pairs of eyes are better than 1.

You will sometimes get very pushy clients that will insist it’s going fine and the dogs will “sort themselves out” (always a red flag) and will push you to say yes to taking the dog home, when you don’t feel it’s going well.

Stand your ground and never be afraid to say no. If it’s not right then it’s not right and not fair on the dogs. Sometimes they don’t put the well being of their dogs first or they don’t see that their dog is blatantly uncomfortable with the situation.

The dogs’ welfare always comes first. Don’t be worried to say no.