Introducing Very Nervous/Reactive Dogs to Strangers

The most important aspect of introducing nervous/stranger reactive dogs to people, is that they’re handled correctly.

Dogs that react negatively to strangers - barking/lunging/snapping etc - have learnt that if they react negatively, it keeps the scary people away.

The dog needs to experience strangers without having to react negatively to learn that the strangers don’t pose a threat to them.

Before you even have the dog out, make sure you have plenty of chopped up sausages/chicken from the cafe and give them to the clients.

The process is very similar to introducing nervous dogs to other dogs.

If new people were trying to give them affection and attention constantly - the dogs won’t see them as safe and will be especially wary of them.

It’s like a stranger running up to you in the street and keeps trying to give you a hug and pat your head - it probably won’t go down well..

This process needs to be done slowly and not to be rushed.

Worst case scenario.. a client gets bitten = no-one wins

Taking Control of the Situation

The dog needs to experience strangers without having to react negatively.

You need to completely take control of the situation and make sure you’ve explained to the people not to attempt to give them affection - repeat yourself if needs be.

Don’t be afraid to be quite stern and abrupt with people if required. They need to know the rules. It’s for their own safety as well as the dog’s safety at the end of the day.

You need to be very relaxed - but aware of the situation.

By talking to the people and having a conversation with them, helps the dog relax with them also.

If it’s rushed and people hastily try to give them affection too soon, the dog will very quickly decide they’re not to be trusted and will most likely react defensively.

To Begin With

Have the new people walking AHEAD of the dog, making sure they know to completely ignore the dog - no eye contact, no trying to touch them, no talking to them - nothing.

Walk the dog beside you or slightly behind you (on a short but relaxed lead) and at a safe distance behind the people (10 metres or so - more if the dog is struggling to settle) and follow exactly where they’re walking.

This allows the dog all the time it needs to assess the people and slowly realise they’re no threat - as the people are walking away from the dog, there’s no eye contact, no tension, which means it’s all very calm and the dog also learns the people are predictable.

It also allows the dog to familiarise itself with their scent.

What you’re looking for is relaxed and calm behaviour from the dog - losing focus of the people in front, turning their back on them, sniffing, exploring, toileting and a relaxed posture.

Depending on the dog and how traumatic its background and association to people is, this may take a couple minutes or several hours of work before they settle.

Do not rush this - this will take time and patience

Decreasing the Distance

When the dog starts to relax, with the people in front, and is displaying calming signals, you can slowly begin to decrease the distance to the people in front. Whilst walking behind the clients, you can ask them to casually drop a couple of sausages on the floor without facing the dog or giving the dog any attention, but continuing the walk.

You’re looking for the dog to really settle being around them and eating treats off the floor and either forgetting the people are there or positively associating the treats to them.

If the dog isn’t food motivated then focus on just calm walking with them. If the dog is toy motivated you can use a tennis ball for later in the paddock. But high value treats usually work best.

Walking Alongside the Clients

As long as the dog is settled and relaxed, eating treats off the floor and starting to relax with the people - walk alongside the clients. But always put yourself in-between the people and the dog.

By doing this you are creating a safe barrier between the people and the dog.

This will allow the dog to feel safer as you’re communicating to the dog that you’re in control of the situation.

If the dog is in-front of you - you’re basically asking the dog to guard you and you’re also sub-consciously asking the dog to let you know if the people are safe or not.. That’s a lot of responsibility for a dog and they will often make the wrong choice.

Having the dog in front of you also communicates to the dog that you’re asking them to fend for themselves and that you’re not looking after them.

If walking alongside the people is too much for the dog at this moment in time then drop back behind them until the dog settles.

Whilst walking alongside, if the dog is very relaxed and settled you can stop with the people (still having the dog beside/just behind you) and you can ask the clients to throw a few sausages on the floor.

If the dog is very relaxed and eating the treats off the floor - then (one client at a time) - you can ask them to hand feed the dog - they can hold the treat out and if the dog approaches them then it’s the dog’s choice.

You always need to be directly in-between the people and the dog and be alert for any wary or tense behaviours.

When giving treats to a dog - people tend to get complacent and stroke the dog under the chin or stroke its head after giving it a treat - remind them beforehand NOT to give affection to the dog.

Affection might be too much for the dog, resulting in the dog reacting, and you’ll have to start all over again - and it will be harder this time as trust will be broken.

Continue walking with the people, especially if the dog seems very tense and unsure. If the dog is very relaxed and accepting treats well, go for a long walk together off site.

Progressing to the Paddock

If the dog is very settled with them after a long walk, then you can proceed to go into the paddock.

After several laps around the paddock on lead, as long as the dog is very settled, you can either let go of the lead or take the lead off the dog altogether. Keep close to the clients at all times. Remind them to be very relaxed and not to give the dog affection as of yet - just treats for now until the dog is ready.

If the dog is toy motivated you can pass the toys to the clients for them to throw. Be cautious about the clients bending down to pick toys up if the dog is close by - it may spook the dog as it can be quite intrusive to bend down close to the dog and potentially unsafe for the clients. It’s always best for you to pass the toys to the clients for a little while until the dog settles and relaxes well with them.

Every Dog is Different

They may take longer to settle and it may take a few sessions for them to learn to trust and be completely relaxed with the clients.

Take your time. Relax but be aware of the situation.

Read your dog well and take it slower if the dog is tense, wary and reacting.